Stainless steel vs sterling silver jewellery: which should you buy?

What is sterling silver?

Sterling silver is an alloy of 92.5% silver, usually with copper making up the rest, because pure silver is too soft for most jewellery. It is often stamped '925'. Silver reacts with sulphur in the air and in some foods and cosmetics, forming a dark tarnish layer that can be polished away. Many sterling pieces are rhodium-plated to slow tarnishing and add a brighter white finish.

What is stainless steel jewellery?

Stainless steel is iron alloyed with chromium, which forms an invisible protective film that resists rust and staining. Jewellery commonly uses 316L, sometimes called surgical steel, which is especially corrosion-resistant. It is harder than silver, keeps its shape, and can be plated in gold, rose gold or black tones.

How do they compare?

• Durability: steel is harder and resists dents and scratches; silver scratches more easily.
• Tarnish: steel barely tarnishes; silver needs regular polishing or anti-tarnish storage.
• Colour: silver has a bright, warm-white lustre; steel is slightly greyer and darker.
• Weight: silver feels a little heavier and more substantial for its size.
• Value: silver is a precious metal with intrinsic value; steel is affordable.
• Resizing and repair: silver is easy for jewellers to resize and solder; steel is difficult.

Which is better for sensitive skin?

Both are usually well tolerated. 316L steel contains nickel locked tightly into the alloy and releases very little, so most people with nickel sensitivity can wear it, though not all. Sterling silver is normally silver and copper, so it suits nickel-sensitive skin unless a nickel-containing alloy or plating is used. See our sensitive-skin guide for details.

Which should you choose?

• Daily wear, gym bags and travel: stainless steel.
• Men's chains, rings and bracelets: stainless steel for toughness.
• Delicate pendants, heirlooms and gifts with lasting value: sterling silver.
• Pieces you want to resize or repair later: sterling silver.

Caring for each metal

Wash stainless steel in mild soapy water and dry it. Polish sterling silver with a silver cloth, store it in airtight bags with an anti-tarnish strip, and keep it away from rubber bands and sulphur-rich foods such as eggs.