ARVENIER
Gold plated vs gold filled comes down to how much gold there is. Gold-plated jewellery has a microscopically thin layer of gold electroplated over a base metal and can wear through with time. Gold-filled jewellery has a much thicker layer bonded on mechanically — under US FTC guidance at least 1/20 of the item's metal weight — and lasts for years. Solid gold is gold alloy all the way through.
What is gold-plated jewellery?
Gold plating uses electricity to deposit a thin film of gold onto a base metal such as brass, copper or stainless steel. Under the US Federal Trade Commission's jewellery guides, 'gold electroplate' should be at least 10 karat and equivalent to about 0.175 microns of fine gold, while 'heavy gold electroplate' should be at least about 2.5 microns. Most affordable fashion jewellery is plated; it looks like gold but needs gentle care, because friction, sweat and chemicals gradually wear the layer away.
What is gold-filled jewellery?
Gold-filled jewellery has a thick sheet of gold alloy bonded to a base metal with heat and pressure. Under FTC guidance the term may be used when the gold layer is at least 1/20 of the weight of the metal, and items are often stamped like '1/20 12K GF'. A thinner bonded layer of at least 1/40 is called 'rolled gold plate'. Gold-filled pieces can last many years with normal wear and are a common choice for people who want gold for daily use without the price of solid gold.
What is vermeil?
Vermeil (pronounced 'ver-may') is sterling silver plated with gold of at least 10 karat and at least about 2.5 microns thick, according to the FTC guides. It is more durable than ordinary plating and the silver base is precious metal, but the gold can still wear on high-contact areas such as ring bands.
Solid gold and karats
In India, real gold jewellery is hallmarked under the Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS) scheme; always look for the hallmark when buying precious gold.
- 24K: about 99.9% gold; very soft and rarely used for everyday jewellery.
- 22K: about 91.6% gold; traditional in Indian jewellery.
- 18K: 75% gold; rich colour and good durability.
- 14K: about 58.3% gold; harder and popular for daily wear in many countries.
Which should you choose?
- Trend pieces, occasion jewellery and gifts on a budget: gold plated.
- Everyday chains and earrings you will wear for years: gold filled or vermeil.
- Heirlooms, investments and wedding jewellery: solid, hallmarked gold.
- Sensitive skin: check the base metal as well as the gold layer.
Making gold-plated jewellery last
Put plated pieces on after perfume and lotion, take them off for bathing and exercise, wipe them with a dry cloth after wearing, and store them separately in airtight bags. Avoid polishing cloths with abrasives, which remove plating along with tarnish.
Frequently asked questions
Does gold-plated jewellery tarnish?
The gold itself does not tarnish, but once the thin layer wears through, the base metal underneath can darken or discolour.
Can gold-filled jewellery get wet?
Occasional water is fine, but chlorine and harsh soaps can dull it. Dry it after contact with water.
Is gold-plated jewellery worth buying?
Yes for fashion and occasional wear, as long as the price reflects that it is plated and you care for it gently.